Hermès Special Orders

Hermès Special Order (HSS) is the invitation-only, made-to-order bag every collector dreams of. It’s a symbol of status and how Hermès values you as a client.

In the refined world of Hermès, where craftsmanship and discretion define every creation, the Special Order, often called an HSS bag for its signature horseshoe stamp, stands as the pinnacle of personalization. 

We view it as Hermès' elegant approach to bespoke design, not an open-ended custom extravaganza, but a thoughtfully curated opportunity reserved for loyal clients. This allows you to craft a handbag that's distinctly yours, all within the maison's timeless boundaries.

Whether you're an established owner exploring your next treasure or simply appreciating the artistry from afar, this guide sheds light on the process. It's about informed enjoyment and preserving value, not chasing myths.

Key Takeaways

• A Hermès Special Order is a highly curated, invitation-only way to personalize a classic Hermès bag within strict seasonal menus, not a fully bespoke process.

• The horseshoe stamp signals custom origin and adds collector interest, but value ultimately depends on leather, color harmony, and condition.

• In 2025, customization is more refined than ever, with tighter style and material options that reward thoughtful, timeless choices.

What Is a Hermès Special Order?

A Special Order is a made-to-order handbag built from an annually updated menu of approved options. Your boutique submits your design to Paris for approval, and artisans in France bring it to life. 

Each bears a discreet horseshoe stamp beside the interior "Hermès Paris" embossing, a subtle marker introduced in 2006.

Don't confuse it with Hermès Horizon, which allows for truly one-of-a-kind structural changes. Special Orders stay within established silhouettes, ensuring harmony with the brand's heritage.

These bags do reach the secondary market, where we've seen them become cherished heirlooms. The horseshoe stamp adds a layer of provenance that collectors prize.

The Horseshoe Stamp: Significance and Nuances

Origin and Meaning

The horseshoe stamp quietly signifies a custom origin. To enthusiasts, it's a nod of recognition, like spotting a rare detail only insiders appreciate.

A Collector's Note

Not every HSS bag was commissioned by its current owner. Boutiques occasionally order them, often in striking bicolor combinations, for display during appointments. These carry the same stamp and enter circulation at standard pricing, enriching the resale landscape.

Who Receives an Invitation?

Invitations come privately through your sales associate, based on your relationship and boutique allocations. There's no universal formula; outcomes vary even among clients with similar histories. 

Most clients receive an SO invitation after multiple Birkin or Kelly allocations, along with consistent spending across categories like ready-to-wear, fine jewelry, watches, and home.

Most boutiques offer Special Orders during designated periods, with menus set annually and typically refreshed early in the year, often around February.

Key Updates for 2025

Hermès refines options annually. In 2025:

Birkin Sellier Restrictions

Sizes 25 and 30 have been removed from the Special Order list, directing customizations toward the softer Birkin Retourne.

Ostrich Leather Change

Ostrich is no longer available for new Special Orders, though it may still appear in regular production. Crocodile and alligator remain for eligible clients.

Color families and hardware options largely carry over, maintaining reassuring continuity.

Customization Options in 2025

We think of choices in layers, starting with the foundation.

Style and Size

Icons like Kelly (Sellier or Retourne), Birkin Retourne, Mini Kelly Sellier II (20 cm), and Kelly Pochette lead the menu. Non-quota bags include Constance, Lindy, Picotin Lock, Bolide 1923, Roulis, 24/24, and Jige Élan.

Leather Choices

Core options: Clemence, Togo, Swift, Epsom, and Chèvre Mysore. Exotics are boutique-approved and selective.

Colors and Layouts

• Line: Single exterior with optional contrast stitching.

• Verso: Contrasting interior for subtle surprise.

• Multico: Bicolor panels and straps.

Tri-color HSS bags exist (especially on the secondary market), but recent Special Order guides report that tri-color is no longer an available configuration to create new.

Stitching and Hardware

Tonal or contrast stitching; six hardware finishes (Gold, Brushed Gold, Palladium, Brushed Palladium, Rose Gold, Permabrass).

Kelly-Specific Details

Strap lengths: 70 cm, 85 cm, 105 cm, or 120 cm for versatile carry.

Personal Touches

Optional initials or motifs on the clochette, many skip these for resale flexibility.

The Appointment Process

Modernized with digital previews, your sales associate guides selections and generates mockups. The order is submitted to Paris for approval.

Timeline and Practicalities

• Lead time: 6–18 months (longer for exotics).

• Payment: Upon delivery, at current prices.

• Option to decline: No obligation; the bag returns to inventory.

The Collector's Perspective: Rarity and Value

On the secondary market, HSS Birkins and Kellys can sell for up to ~50% more than comparable non-HSS models, but results vary widely by color combination, leather, and demand.

We've observed them hold strong as investments when prioritizing versatility and condition.

If You Receive the Invitation: Practical Advice

• Prepare backups in case of menu shifts.

• Identify priorities: silhouette, leather, or color.

• Review details meticulously.

• Favor neutrals with one distinctive element for enduring appeal.

A Hermès Special Order is not about beating a system. It is about making something that fits your taste within Hermès’ season-to-season rules, then patiently letting the artisans do their work. If you never get the invitation, you are in a very large company. 

If you do, enjoy the process, proofread your choices like it is a final exam, and remember: the horseshoe stamp is tiny for a reason. The bag is supposed to do the talking.

For those who prefer not to wait years, Rome Station helps you skip the uncertainty and explore available HSS pieces in store now.