Horseshoe (HSS) Special Orders: Options, Lead Times, and Market Premiums

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The world of Hermès collecting is full of secrets, but the Horseshoe Stamp Special Order program stands out as one of the most elusive. For anyone who dreams of a truly one-of-a-kind Birkin or Kelly, HSS bags are the ultimate in luxury customization.

HSS Special Orders let loyal Hermès clients design bags with custom color combos, exotic leathers, and specs you simply cannot get off the shelf.

These treasures show off a tiny horseshoe foil stamp next to the usual Hermès Paris marking, so you know you are looking at something rare.

Getting one is not simple. You need an invitation, you might wait up to three years for exotics, and the price often goes well beyond retail. 

Still, HSS bags usually sell for about 50% more than standard Hermès models on the resale market, making them both deeply personal and, honestly, a pretty smart collector’s move if you care about rarity.

Key Takeaways

• HSS bags have custom specs chosen by the client, with a horseshoe stamp to prove their bespoke status
• Production can take up to three years, especially for exotic leathers
• On the resale market, they often go for 50% more than regular bags due to exclusivity

Understanding the Horseshoe Stamp (HSS)

The horseshoe stamp is Hermès’ way of marking their most exclusive bags, bespoke special orders with custom colors and materials. HSS pieces grab premium prices and signal a client’s top-tier status in the Hermès world.

History and Significance of the Horseshoe Stamp

Hermès started using the horseshoe stamp over a decade ago to quietly identify special order bags. The little horseshoe sits to the left of the classic Hermès interior stamp; collectors can spot it instantly.

This tiny stamp means a lot. It is a sign that you have reached the height of Hermès customer status; you got the invite to design your own.

The horseshoe itself is a symbol of luck and protection in many cultures, which feels fitting. In Hermès terms, it is a nod to the luck (and, let us be real, persistence) needed to get a Special Order invitation.

Why it matters:

• Marks exclusivity
• Shows client loyalty and status
• Signals bespoke craftsmanship
• Instantly boosts resale value

Criteria for Eligibility

You cannot just ask for an HSS invitation or buy your way in. Hermès keeps their criteria under wraps, but collectors know the drill.

Purchase history is everything. You will need to show serious buying habits across categories, not just bags. Scarves, jewelry, home goods, ready-to-wear, all count.

Relationships with sales associates matter a lot too. The best client-SA bonds develop over years, not weeks. You cannot fake it or rush it.

Location makes a difference. Flagship stores in big cities get more SO slots than smaller boutiques.

Timing is unpredictable. Even if you check all the boxes, you might wait years for your shot, since allocations are tight worldwide.

The Role of Hermès in HSS

Hermès controls every step of the special order process, from invite to delivery. Paris HQ signs off on every SO, keeping standards sky-high.

Every year, Hermès releases updated lists of available colors and leathers. These lists shift seasonally, so what you can order depends on timing. Exterior leathers come with their own color sublists, and interior colors have different options.

The craftspeople get detailed specs, but sometimes they will tweak things if a combo does not work technically or aesthetically. Hermès always reserves the right to adjust orders if needed.

Their oversight covers:

• Paris HQ approval
• Seasonal option changes
• Technical feasibility reviews
• Strict quality control
• Managing delivery timelines

How the HSS Differs From Regular Bags

HSS bags offer customization you will never find in regular production. You can pick interior and exterior colors, contrast stitching, and hardware finishes, palladium, gold, brushed, and more.

Versions range from simple color swaps to wild multi-tonal looks. Birkins have five versions, Kellys have three or four, and Constance offers two.

Production is totally different. Each HSS is crafted for a single client, exactly to their specs. This takes longer, but you get something truly yours.

Market-wise, HSS bags are in their own league. Collectors chase them for their rarity and the ability to create something nobody else has.

Construction details like contrast piping, colored gussets, or handles matching the interior just do not exist on standard bags.

Special Order Process and Access

Hermès Special Orders run on an invite-only system, and it takes real relationship-building with your sales associate. The process goes from initial consult to final delivery, often over 12-18 months.

Invitation and Relationship Building

You cannot just walk in and ask for a Special Order. Hermès invites select clients, usually twice a year, based on loyalty and consistent purchases.

Sales associates look at your buying history, how long you have been a client, and your overall engagement. Most people say it takes years of regular shopping before the first SO invite shows up.

How to build your case:

• Visit your boutique often
• Buy non-quota items (scarves, jewelry, home goods)
• Get to know several sales associates
• Attend brand events if you get the chance

The invite process changes by location. Some stores keep formal waitlists, others leave it up to the SA’s judgment.

In-Store Consultation and Design

After you are invited, you will book an appointment to design your HSS bag with your sales associate. This usually takes about an hour or so; come prepared.

Your SA will walk you through available styles, sizes, and leather options. For 2025, Birkin Sellier sizes 25 and 30 are off the Special Order list, so only Kellys get Sellier options now.

Popular choices:

• Bi-color combos (contrasting exterior/interior)
• Custom stitching to match or pop against the leather
• Hardware selection (gold, palladium, brushed)
• Embossing for a personal touch

A lot of clients have their dream combo in mind, but sometimes discover that leather does not come in the color they want. Checking current color charts ahead of time saves some heartbreak.

Approval and Production Timeline

Once you lock in your design, Hermès sends your order to the atelier in Paris for approval. Not every request gets a yes, if it is too out there, they might say no.

Approval takes about a month or so. Your SA will let you know when Hermès gives the green light.

Production times vary:

• Standard leather: 12-18 months
• Exotics: 18-24 months
• Complex bi-colors: Sometimes longer

After production starts, no changes. Updates come through your SA, but how much you hear depends on the boutique.

Delivery and Receiving Your HSS Bag

When your HSS bag arrives, your SA will reach out to schedule a private pickup, always a special moment.

Each SO bag has the Horseshoe Stamp next to the “Hermès - Paris - Made in France” mark. That is your proof it is the real deal.

When you pick up:

• Double-check the specs match your order
• Make sure the Horseshoe Stamp is there and clear
• Inspect the craftsmanship

Payment happens at pickup, not when you order. That is different from quota bags, where you pay right away.

Your HSS bag comes with all the usual Hermès packaging and a special certificate listing your custom specs. That paperwork is handy for resale or insurance down the line.

Customisation Options for HSS Bags

The best part of HSS? You get to put your own spin on things, within Hermès’ boundaries. From leathers and colors to hardware, every detail can be tailored for something truly yours.

Bag Styles: Birkin, Kelly, and Constance

The Birkin is still the top pick for HSS, in sizes 25, 30, 35, and 40cm. You can choose between Retourne (soft) or Sellier (structured) for most.

The Kelly offers similar flexibility, sizes 20, 25, 28, 32, and 35cm. The Mini Kelly 20 has special hardware limits, making it extra exclusive. Kelly Pochette options change by season and location.

Constance bags come in 18 and 24cm for special orders. That H-clasp is unmistakable.

Some boutiques might let you customize non-quota bags like the Picotin, Bolide, or Roulis, but it really depends on where you shop.

Leather Choices and Exotic Skins

Standard leathers are Epsom, Chèvre, Togo, and Clemence. Each brings a different vibe and feel, depending on your lifestyle.

Exotics, ostrich, crocodile, alligator, are the top of the line. Usually, only VVIP clients with a long history get access to these.

Not everyone can order exotics. Your SA will let you know if it is an option for you.

You will get to handle leather samples from Hermès’ red box, so you can see and feel before deciding.

Colour Selection and Contrasts

HSS lets you play with three main color approaches: line, verso, and multico.

Line: Same color inside and out, but with contrast stitching for a little pop.

Verso: Different interior color, so when you open the bag, you get a surprise contrast.

Multico: Dramatic two-tone. The main color stays on the front/back/bottom, while handles, sangles, and sides get a secondary shade.

Color charts change every year, so what is available depends on Hermès’ production and what materials they have on hand.

Personalisation: Hardware, Stitching, and Interior

Gold and palladium hardware are standard for HSS. Sometimes rose gold is available, but it depends on the boutique and current offerings.

Brushed gold and brushed palladium are HSS exclusives. You will not find these on regular bags. Permabrass is another HSS-only option.

Stitching can be contrast for a bold look or tone-on-tone if you want it subtle. The iPad system now shows you exactly how the stitching will look.

You can also pick shoulder strap length: 70, 85, 105, or 120cm. Some clients add metal motifs, horse heads, shooting stars, clovers to the clochette for a personal touch.

Lead Times and Production Insights

HSS special orders usually take anywhere from 6 to 24 months, depending on complexity and whether you are going for exotics. Seasonal patterns in leather sourcing play a big role in timing.

Timeframes for HSS Special Orders

Most HSS orders finish in 6 to 18 months. Simpler combos like Togo or Clemence leathers are quicker.

Exotics take longer:

• Crocodile: 12-24 months
• Ostrich: 8-18 months
• Lizard: 10-20 months

Kellys and Birkins are the slowest, mostly because of their complex construction. One artisan handles each bag from start to finish.

Constance and smaller bags move faster thanks to simpler builds.

Special hardware adds 2-4 months. Custom colors can slow things down if Hermès needs to prep new dyes.

Factors Influencing Waiting Period

Material sourcing is the main holdup. Exotics need careful selection and prep before work even starts. Crocodile hides, especially, go through tons of quality checks.

Artisan availability matters. Only a handful of craftspeople are cleared for HSS work.

Production queues depend on:

• Seasonal spikes (holidays, gifting)
• Boutique priorities
• Regional demand swings

Hardware like rose gold or ruthenium takes extra time to prepare.

Bag size also matters; bigger bags like HAC need more materials and time.

Quality checks happen at several stages. If there is a flaw, they start over with new materials.

Seasonal Changes and Leather Availability

Exotic skins follow natural cycles. Crocodile is most available in warmer months, when farms harvest. Winter means fewer hides.

Ostrich is steadier year-round. South African suppliers keep things moving better than croc farms.

Standard leathers are usually stable:

• Togo and Clemence: reliable supply
• Box calf: some seasonal ups and downs
• Swift: mostly steady, with minor hiccups

Holiday season can jam up production. Orders from September to November often wait longer due to higher demand.

Spring orders, January to March, tend to move faster, since materials are restocked and demand dips a bit.

Market Premiums and Resale Value

HSS bags almost always fetch big premiums over regular Hermès bags. Auction results show they sell for about 50% more than standard models. These custom pieces make up less than 15% of Hermès auction sales, so collectors who know what they are looking at go after them aggressively.

Why HSS Bags Command a Premium

The horseshoe stamp turns an already exclusive Hermès bag into something genuinely special. Collectors chase these for a few reasons that are hard to ignore.

Rarity leads the charge. HSS bags show up as less than 15% of all Hermès bags at auction, making them much harder to find than regular models.

Customization appeal is a huge draw. Every special order reflects the original owner's taste, from the color mix to hardware.

The exclusivity factor? It is real. Only Hermès' top clients get "The Call" to create a special order, and that alone adds a layer of prestige.

Unique color combinations bring bags to life in ways you will not see in standard production. These one-off combos spark conversations regular bags just cannot.

Resale Market Trends for HSS Specials

Market data lately shows some interesting moves for HSS bags. Demand is strong across luxury platforms and auction houses.

Neutral combinations are beating out bold color choices. Classics like Black/Gold or Etoupe/Gold keep their broad appeal, while seasonal or themed colors are more hit-or-miss.

Size preferences have not changed much. Birkin 25 and 30, plus Kelly 25 and 28, pull the highest premiums among special orders.

Exotic HSS pieces are in a league of their own. A recent HSS Mini Kelly 20 II in Matte Kraft and Gris Perle Alligator fetched over $192,000 at auction.

Condition matters, big time. Store-fresh HSS bags with original plastic on the hardware bring the highest multiples, sometimes well over $100,000 for the right combo.

Comparing Regular and HSS Bag Values

The value gap between regular and HSS bags really depends on model, condition, and how much people want a particular combo.

On average, HSS bags sell for about 50% more than similar regular pieces. For especially sought-after combos, that premium can double.

Entry-level example: A standard Birkin 30 in Togo leather might go for $18,000-22,000. An HSS version with special colors could easily reach $25,000-35,000.

Exotic comparisons get even wilder. Regular crocodile Birkins start around $60,000, but HSS versions with rare colors can shoot past six figures.

Kelly bags follow the same general trend. HSS versions ask for (and get) much higher prices than regular ones in similar sizes and leathers.

From an investment angle, HSS bags seem to hold their value better when the market wobbles. Rarity works as a buffer against depreciation.

Secondary Market and Collectability

HSS bags fetch big premiums on the secondary market. Special order pieces usually sell for about 50% more than regular Birkins and Kellys at auction. With less than 15% of Hermès auction bags being HSS, it is no wonder they are so collectible.

Buying HSS Bags Pre-Loved

The pre-owned market is probably your best bet for snagging an HSS bag without waiting years for a special order. Auction houses regularly list them, but with rarity comes the need for careful authenticity checks.

Always inspect the horseshoe stamp, it is right beside the main Hermès stamp and marks a custom job. This stamp became standard in 2006, so earlier custom bags need to be identified by their specs, not their markings.

Condition is even more important with HSS bags than with regular Hermès. Repairs or replacement parts can be tricky, since matching those unique color combos is not easy.

Provenance documents, original receipts, authenticity cards, purchase history, carry weight. They help prove legitimacy and can boost prices a lot.

Rarity and Investment Value

Special order bags occupy a strange, rarefied space in the luxury world. Exotic HSS pieces, reportedly reserved for clients spending close to seven figures a year, are just about as rare as it gets.

Recent auctions back up their investment potential. That HSS Mini Kelly 20 II in matte kraft and gris perle alligator? Over $192,000 at auction, setting a new bar.

Color combos really move the needle:

• Neutral, harmonious mixes do best
• Holiday-themed (black/orange, red/green) appeal to a niche
• Patriotic combos have broad international fans
• Sports team colors? People either love or hate them

That 50% premium is just an average; truly special bags can go for multiples of standard retail.

Provenance and Collector Appeal

Collectors chase HSS bags for more than just rarity. Each one tells a story, client preferences, Hermès craftsmanship at its most personal.

Bags commissioned by celebrities, royalty, or notable collectors add a mystique (and a price bump) beyond just materials.

The horseshoe stamp itself is now a status symbol in Hermès circles. It is a wink to insiders and a nod to the brand’s bespoke, equestrian roots.

Paperwork confirming special touches like contrast stitching, custom hardware, or unique interiors can dramatically boost appeal and value.

Frequently Asked Questions

From wild color combos to nerve-wracking wait times, special order bags stir up a lot of questions. The market premiums and exclusive stamps only add to the intrigue.

What are the freshest color combos turning heads for Hermès special orders this year?

Right now, some combos are really making waves. Rose Sakura with Nata is dreamy and has collectors buzzing.

Multico options like Vert Amande with Gold hardware are instant classics. Lots of collectors are chasing verso combinations, Rouge H outside, Bleu Electrique inside? Yes, please.

Brushed hardware finishes are a big deal lately, since you can only get them on special orders. They add a subtle texture that feels luxurious but not over-the-top.

How long should I expect to wait for my mini Kelly after placing a special order?

Expect your mini Kelly special order to show up anywhere from 6 to 18 months after ordering. Exotic leathers? That can stretch to 2-3 years, all depending on material availability.

The new iPad system (since 2023) has sped things up a bit. Standard leather orders seem to fall on the shorter end of that range now.

Mini Kellys cannot get brushed hardware, which might shave off some wait time. Your SA will have the best estimate based on your choices.

Is there a not-so-secret guide to navigating the Hermès special order process like a pro?

Building a real relationship with your sales associate is still the best advice. Be clear about your dream bag when you talk wishlist options.

That red sample box is your friend; take your time pairing leathers and hardware before you commit.

Do not stress too much at the iPad mock-up stage. What you see is pretty much what you will get.

How much more do I need to shell out for a Hermès special order compared to regular offerings?

Here is the twist: special orders cost the same as regular bags of the same size, leather, and hardware. You pay current retail when your bag arrives.

Bi-colors, contrast stitching, custom straps? No extra charges. Even exclusive brushed hardware is included at standard pricing.

The catch: you will pay whatever the price is when your bag lands, not when you ordered. If prices rise during the wait, you pay the new price.

Can you spill the tea on the significance of the special order stamp and what it means for value?

That little horseshoe next to "Hermès Paris"? It is a clear sign your bag is HSS. It is a quiet badge for the unofficial "Horseshoe Club."

Resale markets show HSS bags consistently fetching higher prices than regular versions. Rarity is the main driver here.

Collectors see the horseshoe stamp as a badge of honor. It is proof of a special relationship with Hermès and the exclusivity of custom creation.

Let's talk timelines, has the market demand affected the lead times for Hermès HSS orders?

Lead times usually stay somewhere between 6 and 18 months for standard leathers. Honestly, it is less about wild demand swings and more about how much they can actually produce each season.

If you are eyeing exotic leathers, expect to wait longer. Crocodile and alligator special orders? Those can drag out to 2 or even 3 years, mostly because sourcing those materials is not exactly a breeze.

The digital ordering system helps a lot. Fewer mistakes, fewer orders getting bounced back for rebuilds. It is not perfect, but it is definitely cut down on those frustrating delays.