Ghillies Detailing: Brogue‑Inspired Trims on Birkin & Kelly

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Hermès has always walked the line between tradition and innovation, and their Ghillies collection might be the best example of that. 

Ghillies detailing takes the playful, scalloped edges and perforations from classic Scottish brogue shoes and gives them new life on the world’s most coveted handbags, limited-edition Birkins and Kellys that somehow feel both whimsical and refined.

It all started back in 2011, when Pierre Hardy’s haute bijouterie collection sparked something new at Hermès.

Who would have thought that the utilitarian ghillie brogue shoe, designed with holes to help Scottish shoes dry out after slogging through mud, would inspire some of the most elegant handbags you will ever see?

Collectors chase these bags with a kind of fever you do not see every day. Honestly, it makes sense. The Ghillies editions mark a rare moment when Hermès took its most classic shapes and gave them a twist that feels both unexpected and completely at home.

Key Takeaways

• Ghillies detailing reimagines Birkin and Kelly bags with brogue-inspired perforations and scalloped trim, drawing from Scottish shoe design
• Released in 2012, these limited-edition bags are among the rarest Hermès makes, often mixing bold bi-colour combos
• Their unique craftsmanship and scarcity fuel high demand among collectors and strong resale values

What Is Ghillies Detailing on Birkin and Kelly Bags?

Ghillies detailing adds a layer of visual intrigue to classic Hermès shapes, using perforated trim inspired by Scottish men’s dress shoes. The look is distinct, and the craftsmanship is no small feat.

Defining Brogue-Inspired Perforations

“Ghillies” refers to those decorative holes you see on traditional brogue shoes. On Hermès bags, these perforations pop up on the flap, base, and sangles, with scalloped edges that really catch the light.

Key Placement Areas:

• Flap edges
• Side panels (sangles)
• Base corners
• Handle attachments

These are not just random holes. Each one calls back to Scottish footwear, while also adding a textured depth to the bag.

Signature Features and Craftsmanship

Ghillies bags show off Hermès’ obsessive attention to detail. The perforations take extra time and skill, so these bags are even more labor-intensive than the standard ones.

Colour contrast is a big part of the appeal. Some Ghillies bags stick to a single leather, but others mix in canvas, suede, or even exotic skins for more drama.

Material Combos:

• Leather with canvas
• Contrasting leathers
• Exotic skins
• Textured mixes

The Grand Marriage editions are the holy grail, bags that combine alligator, ostrich, and lizard skins in one. It is luxury, dialed up.

Origins of the Ghillies Motif in Hermès Design

Pierre Hardy, Hermès’ Artistic Director of Jewellery, worked with the bag design team to create the Ghillies collection in 2012. The idea came straight from Scottish men’s dress shoes known as “ghillies.”

Originally, the perforations on brogues were practical, they let wet shoes dry faster in the Highlands.

Hardy’s take turned that functional detail into pure luxury. The first Ghillies bags landed in Fall 2012, in very limited colours, and collectors were hooked instantly.

Original Launch:

• Season: Fall/Winter 2011-2012
• Materials: Tadelakt leather
• Colours: Fauve, Vert Veronese, Rubis

Later, the collection grew to include Togo, Swift, and even Porosus crocodile. Ghillies bags have stayed among the most sought-after Hermès editions.

The Brogue Connection: From Shoes to Designer Handbags

It is a wild leap, from Scottish Highland footwear to Parisian luxury bags. Pierre Hardy saw something in traditional broguing and ran with it, blending rugged Celtic charm with French polish.

Brogue Shoe Origins and Iconic Styles

“Brogue” comes from the Gaelic bróg or bròg, once describing sturdy leather shoes for Highland workers. Early ghillie brogues were just leather pieces with holes punched at the edges, tied with simple laces.

Those holes? They were not just for show. In Scotland’s wet climate, workers needed shoes that drained and dried fast.

Brogue Styles:

• Full brogue: Lots of perforations across the toe and sides
• Semi-brogue: Fewer decorative holes, mostly on the toe edge
• Ghillie brogue: Lace-up, no tongue, often worn with kilts

What started as “young boys’ shoes” (ghillie literally means that) became formal Highland wear, now you will spot them at royal events and Scottish weddings.

Translating Broguing to Hermès Bags

Pierre Hardy, after teaming up with the Hermès bag designers, launched the Ghillies collection in Fall 2012. He wanted to bring the masculine elegance of Scottish shoes to the Birkin and Kelly.

The broguing technique on the bags means carefully punched, wingtip-style holes along the flap edges, sangles, and base, mirroring the shoes.

It is a painstaking process, and it drives up both the cost and the cachet. Every hole is hand-finished, keeping Hermès standards sky-high.

Some collectors say the menswear vibe makes these bags feel more unisex; others think the detail actually makes them even more feminine.

The Story Behind the Ghillies Name

The Ghillies collection borrows its name right from the Scottish ghillie brogue, honoring the shoe that inspired it all. In Gaelic tradition, a “ghillie” was a young guide who helped with hunting and fishing.

Those guides needed tough shoes for rough ground, hence the perforated design. “Broguing” is the act of punching those holes.

Calling the collection “Ghillies” instead of just “Brogue” nods to this very specific Scottish style. It is a subtle tribute, connecting each bag to Highland heritage and turning practical, old-school craftsmanship into modern luxury.

Now, the perforations are purely decorative, no one’s drying out their Birkin in a bog.

Hermès Ghillies Editions: Birkin and Kelly Models

The Ghillies collection gives both Birkin and Kelly bags a fresh edge, literally, scalloped perforations and brogue-inspired trim. Both models get the same treatment on flaps and hardware, but each keeps its own signature structure.

Birkin Ghillies: Highlights and Rare Editions

The Birkin Ghillies first dropped in Fall 2012, blending jewelry design with leatherwork. You will spot the perforated trim on the sangles, flap edges, and base corners.

Key Features:

• Perforations mimic ghillie brogue shoes
• Scalloped edges add texture
• Trim highlights hardware and seams

The larger Birkins, like the B35, really show off the Ghillies work.

Production Notes:

• Limited numbers each year
• Priced higher for the extra craftsmanship
• Contrasting leathers are common

Birkin Ghillies bags fetch big numbers at auction. Their rarity makes them true collector’s pieces.

Some versions mix exotic leathers for even more visual punch.

Kelly Ghillies: Features and Distinct Qualities

Kelly Ghillies keeps the bag’s crisp structure but adds brogue flair. The trim feels more refined on the Kelly’s sharp lines.

Distinctive Elements:

• Trim follows the Kelly’s angular flap
• Perforations line up with the bag’s geometry
• Turn-lock area gets special attention

That contrast between the formal Kelly shape and casual brogue trim? It just works.

Construction Details:

• Available in both Sellier and Retourne
• Ghillies trim adapts to each style
• Hardware integration is precise

Kelly Ghillies sometimes read a bit more masculine. The menswear detail balances out the bag’s usual femininity.

Tadelakt leather versions really let the Ghillies trim shine. The smooth leather makes the perforations pop.

Materials, Sizes, and Colourways

Standard Sizes:

Model	Common Sizes	Less Common
Birkin Ghillies	30cm, 35cm	25cm, 40cm
Kelly Ghillies	28cm, 32cm	25cm, 35cm

Popular Leathers:

• Togo (most common)
• Tadelakt (smooth finish)
• Clemence (softer)
• Swift (structured)

Colourways usually start with neutrals, Fauve, Etoupe, Black, with contrasting trim.

Pricing:

• Resale: $9,305–$36,875 CAD
• Average: about $20,789 CAD
• Premium: 15–25% over standard models

Some Ghillies bags mix in canvas for a sportier vibe.

Hermès keeps production tight. If you spot a real one at an authorized dealer, do not dawdle.

A Closer Look: Hardware, Leather, and Finishing Touches

Ghillies bags show off Hermès’ knack for detail, from hardware to leather choices. Most pieces use palladium hardware and Swift leather or bi-material mixes.

Palladium Hardware vs. Gold Hardware

Most Ghillies bags come with palladium hardware, a cool, silvery metal that looks sharp against the perforated leather.

Palladium has a glow that really sets off the brogue trim. Unlike some Hermès lines, the Ghillies collection sticks to palladium, which ties back to the look of Scottish brogues.

Why palladium?

• Highlights the perforations
• Feels authentic to brogue shoes
• Contrasts nicely with warm leathers

Leather Types Used in Ghillies Pieces

Swift leather dominates the Ghillies lineup. Its smooth grain is perfect for showing off all those tiny holes.

Bi-material combos are a standout. Swift leather with Toile canvas, for example, gives the bag extra texture.

Colours range from rich Sanguine (a deep red) to Etoupe and plenty of two-tone options. These choices keep the bags looking fresh and highlight the detailing.

Swift is also tough enough to keep those delicate trims looking crisp, which matters if you are investing in something this intricate.

Collector Appeal: What Makes Ghillies Trims So Coveted?

The Ghillies collection turns classic Hermès bags into true collector’s items, thanks to limited runs and brogue-inspired details that feel surprisingly versatile.

Limited Production and Exclusivity

Hermès launched Ghillies as a limited edition in Fall 2012, starting with Tadelakt leather in just three colours: Fauve, Vert Veronese, and Rubis.

Only a tiny slice of Birkin and Kelly bags got the Ghillies treatment, so each one stands out in any collection.

The Grand Marriage versions are especially prized, these combine alligator, ostrich, and lizard skins with Ghillies trim.

Hermès keeps numbers low on purpose. That exclusivity helps resale values stay strong.

Styling and Versatility for Discerning Collectors

The brogue perforations nod to men’s shoes, but the bags keep their elegance. The trim adds just enough texture to make things interesting, without taking over.

Ghillies bags work with jeans or a suit. The trim’s visual pop fits both business and weekend looks.

Bi-colour versions offer even more ways to style, think Etoupe with White, or Bleu with Rouge.

The design lands right between playful and sophisticated. If you want a bag that stands out but is not a passing fad, Ghillies is hard to beat.

Caring for Your Ghillies Birkin or Kelly

Those delicate brogue details need a gentle touch when cleaning, and the leather and hardware deserve regular care to keep them looking their best.

Cleaning Brogue-Inspired Perforations

Those gorgeous perforations, let us be honest, they are dirt magnets. If you do not stay on top of debris in the brogue detailing, it will sneak up on you and turn into a real problem.

Grab a soft-bristled brush and gently work it through the perforated areas. I usually reach for a clean, dry toothbrush; it is perfect for those tiny holes and will not scratch the leather.

Do not use water or liquid cleaners directly on the perforations. Liquids can seep in and cause stains or damage that is nearly impossible to fix. Nobody wants that.

For stubborn bits of debris, try a few short bursts of compressed air. Hold the canister at least 15 centimeters away, you do not want to accidentally push dirt further in.

Weekly maintenance routine:

• Brush perforations with a soft-bristled brush
• Check for trapped particles after each use
• Store in a dust bag to keep exposure low

Preserving Leather and Hardware

Ghillies bags need the same premium leather care as any Hermès piece, but the extra trim means more surfaces to watch.

Use leather conditioner sparingly on both the main leather and the brogue trim. I would stick with Hermès-approved products or a high-quality conditioner made for luxury leather.

Ghillies hardware often comes with extra elements around the brogue detailing. Wipe metal components gently with a soft, lint-free cloth to keep tarnish at bay.

Essential care supplies:

• Hermès leather conditioner
• Microfibre cloths
• Soft-bristled brush
• Dust bags for storage

Handle the brogue trim gently when conditioning. Perforated leather is more delicate than solid sections, so go easy with the pressure in those areas.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Ghillies collection brings some unique challenges and styling quirks that set it apart from standard Hermès bags. Knowing how to care for them, customize (or not), and find authentic pieces makes all the difference.

How do I maintain the pristine condition of the Brogue detailing on my Birkin?

Those perforated edges really need a light touch. Use a soft, dry cloth to dust off the small holes. I would recommend Hermès leather conditioner, but use it sparingly, dab it on with a cotton swab so you do not overdo it on the brogue trim.

Keep water away from the perforations. Moisture can collect and damage the leather. When you are not using it, stuff your Ghillies Birkin with tissue paper and pop it in the dust bag to help it keep its shape.

If you want to go the extra mile, get a professional cleaning every 12–18 months. The intricate detailing is more vulnerable to wear than smooth leather.

What is the latest trend in customizing a Kelly with brogue trims?

Hermès is not offering custom brogue detailing as a service. The Ghillies collection was a limited edition back in 2012, so authentic pieces only show up on the resale market.

Some third-party customizers claim they can add brogue detailing, but that will void authenticity and tank the bag’s value. Honestly, I would not risk it.

Collectors now hunt for original vintage Ghillies pieces instead of trying to create new ones. The original craftsmanship just has something modern interpretations cannot match.

Can you share tips for styling outfits that complement the intricate detailing of Ghillies on luxury bags?

Brogue detailing pairs beautifully with tailored blazers and structured looks, there is a subtle Scottish heritage vibe. Think crisp white shirts, well-fitted trousers, maybe even a little menswear edge.

I would avoid super-feminine or flowy fabrics that compete with the bag’s sharp details. Ghillies really shines with clean lines and classic silhouettes.

Earth tones and neutrals work wonders for highlighting the perforated trim. If you have got a bi-colour version, try it with a monochrome outfit and let the bag steal the show.

What is the process and typical waiting period for a bespoke Ghillies-detail Birkin or Kelly?

Hermès is not making bespoke Ghillies pieces through their Special Order program anymore. The collection ended after its 2012 run.

So, if you want a Ghillies, you will need to look at authenticated resellers or auction houses. Wait times are not about production, it is just a matter of when one pops up for sale.

Sometimes, authentic Ghillies bags show up at major auctions every few months. You will need some patience; they are a lot rarer than standard Birkins and Kellys.

Where can I source authentic Ghillies Detailing services for my Hermes collection?

There is no legitimate service that adds Ghillies detailing to existing Hermès bags. The perforated trim is done during the original manufacturing, you cannot really replicate it afterward.

Your best bet is to stick with authorized Hermès boutiques and certified resellers. Always ask for detailed documentation and professional authentication before buying. These bags are rare, so unfortunately, they are also a target for counterfeits.

Are there any notable collaborations or editions featuring Ghillies detailing to keep an eye out for?

Pierre Hardy’s 2012 collection stands as the only true Ghillies edition Hermès ever made. Hardy worked with the handbag design team to come up with both single-colour and bi-colour versions.

Those bi-colour combos, like Etoupe with White, or Blue with Rouge, really catch collectors’ attention. The contrast makes the brogue detailing pop in a way that is hard to ignore.

Hermès has not dropped any hints about bringing the Ghillies back. The 2012 pieces just keep getting more valuable, and honestly, we are always hoping for a surprise reissue, but so far? Nothing.