Decoding Hermès Bag Terminology: A Beginner's Glossary
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Navigating the world of Hermès bags honestly feels like learning a new language. There’s a wild mix of quirky terms and abbreviations everywhere you look. Understanding Hermès bag terms helps us make sense of listings, authenticate pieces, and shop smarter. Whether we’re eyeing a Birkin or chatting about Chevre leather, knowing the lingo keeps us in the loop and maybe even a step ahead.
Nobody wants to feel lost or make a pricey mistake, especially with something this special. Here’s a glossary to demystify those codes and terms so we can talk Hermès like we’ve been doing it for years, and actually feel confident about it.
Key Takeaways
- Get the basic Hermès bag terms and abbreviations down.
- Understand bag materials, hardware, and sizing without headaches.
- Pick up tips to spot authentic Hermès pieces and care lingo.
Core Hermès Bag Types
Hermès has rolled out a bunch of signature bags, each with its own backstory, shape, and vibe. Let’s break down the details that matter to anyone who’s even a little bag-obsessed.
Birkin vs Kelly: The Iconic Duo
The Birkin and Kelly are, hands down, Hermès’ most famous creations. The Birkin, born after a chat with Jane Birkin, comes with two handles, a soft-sided shape, and a casual-luxe feel. The Kelly, named for Grace Kelly, feels more structured, has just one top handle, and a formal latch closure.
Here’s how they stack up:
| Feature | Birkin | Kelly |
|---|---|---|
| Handles | Two | One top handle |
| Closure | Flap with sangles/belts | Flap with turn lock |
| Shape | Relaxed/tote | Boxy/structured |
| Carry options | Arm or hand | Hand or shoulder (strap) |
Choosing between them? It’s usually about whether you’re after the Birkin’s laid-back energy or the Kelly’s classic polish.
Lindy, Constance, and Beyond
The Lindy shakes things up with double handles and a twisty, side-collapsing shape. It’s great for shoulder wear and actually fits a ton, so it works for daily life. Those curved zippers on the ends? Oddly satisfying.
The Constance is all about sleek lines and that bold H-shaped clasp. It’s compact, rectangular, and just right when you’re out and only need the essentials. Crossbody strap? Yes, please.
Then there’s the Evelyne with its sporty perforated “H,” the Picotin bucket (minimal hardware, super chill), and the Bolide with its rounded zip-top look. Each one fits a different mood, whether you’re running errands or dressing up for something big.
Limited Edition Marvels
Sometimes Hermès drops bags in tiny, blink-and-you’ll-miss-them quantities. That’s when collectors go a little wild. Micro versions, the elusive So Black or Shadow Birkins, they’ve all got some twist, like experimental hardware or wild leathers.
The Faubourg looks like the Paris storefront and vanishes from shelves in a heartbeat. Even standard models get wild makeovers: shiny croc, ostrich, rose gold hardware, sometimes even diamonds. These bags don’t just keep time, they tell stories, and some end up at auction for prices that’ll make your jaw drop.
Essential Hermès Bag Anatomy
When you look at an Hermès bag, you quickly realize its parts aren’t just for show. They’re why these bags work so well and look so good.
Flap, Clochette, and Turn Lock
The flap isn’t just a cover, it’s what gives Birkin and Kelly bags their signature shape and clean lines.
Right under that flap, you’ll spot the clochette, a little leather sheath that holds the key for the lock. It dangles quietly, staying out of the way but always there if you need it. The lock and keys? They’re not just cute, they actually work.
The turn lock (often called “touret” or “plaques” for the metal bits) gives that satisfying click when you close the flap. Whether in palladium or gold, it’s a detail you just can’t miss.
Handles, Straps, and Feet
Handles are a big deal: the Kelly’s single top handle gives it a poised, almost regal look, while the Birkin’s double rolled handles are all about easy grab-and-go. Options matter.
Detachable shoulder straps on Kelly and some Constance bags let you switch from hand-carry to over-the-shoulder. Strap length and style vary, so you can always find one that feels right for you.
Feet, or “clou” (those tiny metal studs), aren’t just for decoration. They keep the bottom leather safe from scratches when you set your bag down. Honestly, they’re easy to overlook, but they quietly do their job.
Interior Layouts and Pockets
Inside, Hermès keeps things practical. Most bags have a main compartment, a zippered pocket for valuables, and at least one open slot for quick grabs.
Kelly bags usually have a zip pocket plus a slip pocket. Birkins are more open, with a zippered wall pocket and a big open slot. Some newer bags even come with removable pouches for extra flexibility.
Every interior gets finished in matching or sometimes contrasting leather, often chevre or goatskin. It’s all about that little jolt of luxury every time you reach in.
Signature Hermès Leathers
Hermès bags are just as famous for their leathers as their designs. Each leather brings its own texture, shine, and attitude, shaping how the bag looks and feels.
Togo, Clemence, and Epsom
These three leathers pop up everywhere in Hermès chats. Togo is the workhorse, grained calfskin with a pebbled texture, a bit of shine, and really holds its shape. Scratches? Just brush ‘em off. The soft, slightly raised grain feels amazing.
Clemence is softer, heavier, and made from baby bull. Its flat, matte finish gives bags a slouchier look, and the grain’s bigger and rounder than Togo’s. It ages beautifully, but it can sag, so maybe skip it if you want a super-structured bag.
Epsom is all about structure. It’s embossed leather, light but stiff, and almost immune to scratches. The grain’s tiny and uniform, so colors look extra vibrant. It feels a bit papery next to Togo or Clemence, but if you want sharp corners and easy cleaning, Epsom’s your friend.
| Leather | Texture | Weight | Durability | Shape |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Togo | Pebbled | Medium | High | Holds structure |
| Clemence | Flat, wide grain | Heavy | Medium | Slouchy |
| Epsom | Fine, embossed | Light | Very high | Very structured |
Exotic Skins: Crocodile, Ostrich, Lizard
If you’re feeling extra, Hermès exotics are hard to resist. Crocodile (Porosus and Niloticus especially) is sought after for its glossy sheen and tight scales. Each bag’s pattern is unique. But croc needs care, humidity and scratches are the enemy.
Ostrich stands out with its signature quill bumps. It’s surprisingly tough, light, and handles daily use better than you’d expect. The matte finish and dye-absorbing powers mean the colors are deep, especially those famous Hermès pinks and blues.
Lizard skins are rare and a little delicate. The scales are small, shiny, and can dry out if you’re not careful. Not a fan of babying your bags? Maybe skip lizard. But the shine and detail? Pretty tempting for collectors.
Deciphering Hermès Hardware
Hermès hardware isn’t just for looks, it’s a big part of how the bag works and feels. Knowing the finishes and closures helps spot rare pieces and keep them looking good.
Palladium, Gold, and Permabrass Finishes
Hermès sticks to just a few classic metals, but each one brings its own vibe. Palladium gives a silvery, cool look that shrugs off scratches and tarnish. It’s crisp, understated, and pairs well with neutral leathers.
Gold hardware is the classic Hermès look, real gold plating, warm and unmistakably luxe. Yellow gold jumps out, while rose gold (used for special orders) is subtler and kind of dreamy.
Permabrass is something different, a muted, champagne-gold metal. It lands somewhere between silver and yellow gold. If you want something less shiny but still unique, permabrass is a solid pick. Plus, it’s tough and doesn’t tarnish easily.
| Finish | Look | Key Features |
|---|---|---|
| Palladium | Bright silver, cool tones | Scratch & tarnish resistant |
| Gold | Rich gold, warm tones | Real gold plating |
| Permabrass | Matte, champagne hue | Subtle sheen, hardy |
Special Closure Styles
It’s not just about the metal; Hermès bags have some seriously unique closures. The Kelly turn-lock (“touret”) rotates to secure the flap and handles. The Birkin and Kelly use similar hardware, but the magic’s in the details: how solid and precise each piece feels.
The Constance’s H-shaped clasp opens with a gentle push, simple, but iconic. The Medor rocks pyramid studs and a hidden snap, looking fierce and a little mysterious. Closures aren’t just functional, they give the bag personality and, sometimes, signal rarity.
Here’s a fun tidbit: limited editions sometimes feature jeweled or enameled hardware. You’ll spot these in capsule collections, and collectors can usually pick them out instantly by the bold accents and exclusive feel.
Understanding Hermès Sizing
Hermès sizing can trip people up, so many numbers, style tweaks, and random references. But with a few basics, you can decode those numbers fast and figure out what fits your life.
How to Read Size Numbers
Hermès uses centimeters for bag lengths, and you’ll see these in the product names. Birkin 25? That’s 25 cm across the base. The number always refers to width, not height or depth.
Quick cheat sheet:
| Model | Common Sizes |
|---|---|
| Birkin | 25, 30, 35, 40 |
| Kelly | 20, 25, 28, 32, 35 |
| Constance | 18, 24 |
So, a Kelly 28 isn’t about your age, it’s 28 cm wide. If you’re shopping or talking to a sales associate, just mention the number that matches your ideal bag size.
Mini, Classic, and Oversized
Hermès bags mostly fall into mini, classic, or oversized. Minis like the Birkin 25 or Kelly 20 are perfect for nights out or when you just need the basics, phone, card holder, lipstick.
Classic sizes are the everyday sweet spot. Birkin 30, Kelly 28 or 32, they fit your main stuff without being bulky. You’ll see these everywhere, from style blogs to city streets.
Oversized bags (Birkin 40, Kelly 35) are travel heroes, swallowing tablets, notebooks, and even a scarf. Some folks use them as work bags. Ultimately, the right size is whatever fits your routine and feels right.
Hermès Bag Stamps and Markings
When it comes to Hermès, the codes and marks matter, a lot. These tiny details reveal your bag’s history, origin, and authenticity. Knowing your stamps and markings can save you money, headaches, and maybe a little heartbreak down the road.
Craftsman and Date Stamps
Every real Hermès bag hides a craftsman’s mark and a date stamp, usually tucked inside near a seam or flap. The craftsman’s mark is a combo of letters or symbols that tells you which atelier or artisan made the bag. If something goes wrong later, Hermès uses this mark for repairs or authentication.
The date stamp shows the year the bag was made. Hermès started with just a letter, but since 1971, they’ve used a letter inside a shape:
| Year Range | Example | Format |
|---|---|---|
| 1945-1970 | "A" | Single letter |
| 1971-1996 | "A" in a circle | Letter in circle |
| 1997-2014 | "A" in a square | Letter in square |
| 2015+ | "X" | Letter (no shape) |
This helps us figure out the age of Hermès bags, especially when hunting vintage or resale.
Blind Stamps Decoded
Hermès blind stamps are pressed right into the leather, not printed or inked, so they’re easy to miss at first. You’ll usually spot them on the inside panel, near the clasp, or hidden under a flap.
Blind stamps act as authenticity markers, tying each bag to Hermès standards. The symbols and letters change over time and might include extra marks for special orders or limited editions, like horseshoes for custom bags or initials for VIPs.
If you can find and read the blind stamp, you’re one step closer to knowing if your bag is legit. Always check the location, style, and sharpness, Hermès doesn’t do sloppy. If it’s messy or missing, that’s a warning sign.
Exclusive Colours and Special Orders
Honestly, the stories behind Hermès bag colours and custom pieces are half the fun. Nothing says luxury and individuality like a shade you can’t find anywhere else.
Seasonal and Signature Shades
Hermès is legendary for its colour range. Classic shades like Etoupe, Gold, and Rouge H are instantly recognisable and always in the lineup. Every year, new colours pop up for a short time, making them extra collectible and, let’s be real, a bit of a challenge to track down.
Sometimes you’ll see colours like Vert Criquet or Anemone, here one season, gone the next. Certain shades are tied to specific leathers, so if you spot one, it’s a rare treat. Here’s a quick breakdown:
| Type | Duration | Example Colours |
|---|---|---|
| Signature | Always available | Gold, Etoupe, Noir |
| Seasonal | Limited release | Cactus, Nata, Bleu Brume |
Collectors get pretty good at spotting rare seasonal colours and chasing them down before they vanish. Bringing home a Birkin in last year’s wild pink? That’s a flex.
Horseshoe and Custom Pieces
Hermès has a special custom program called the Horseshoe Stamp (HSS). With HSS, you get to pick things like exterior and interior colours, stitching, hardware, and sometimes even leather. But it’s invite-only and reserved for top clients.
Bags from this program have a tiny horseshoe symbol next to the Hermès logo. That stamp means the bag’s a one-off, designed by the buyer. There are loads of possible combos, but not every leather or shade is up for grabs.
A Blue Jean exterior with Rose Azalee lining and brushed gold hardware? If you can dream it (and you’re invited), HSS can make it happen. Spotting a horseshoe-stamped bag at a Hermès event is a quiet brag, there aren’t many out there.
Popular Hermès Bag Abbreviations
Hermès bag talk is full of shorthand. Here’s a cheat sheet for the terms you’ll see everywhere.
Quick List of Common Abbreviations:
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| B or BK | Birkin |
| K or KP | Kelly or Kelly Pochette |
| HAC | Haut à Courroies |
| SO | Special Order |
| GHW / PHW | Gold/Palladium Hardware |
| Togo | Togo leather |
| Epsom | Epsom leather |
| NIB | New in Box |
You’ll see B30 or K32 a lot, that just means bag style and size in centimetres. So, "B25" is a 25 cm Birkin.
"SO" means Special Order, usually a bag with custom colours or features. These are the rare gems.
For hardware, GHW is gold hardware and PHW is palladium.
Leather names like Togo or Epsom pop up constantly, they’re just the material.
NIB (new in box) means untouched and still has all its packaging. Who doesn’t love opening a fresh orange box?
Provenance and Authenticity Terms
With Hermès, provenance and authenticity really matter. We want to know our bags are real and have the right history.
Provenance is the bag’s paper trail, receipts, boutique stamps, original packaging. It’s like a passport for your Birkin.
Authenticity means the bag’s the real deal. Hermès uses unique blind stamps, usually hidden in the leather, to show the year and artisan.
We also check:
- Artisan’s Mark: Hand-stamped, shows who made the bag.
- Date Stamp: Year code, inside the bag.
- Craftsmanship details: Clean stitches, top-notch materials, engraved hardware.
Here’s a reference for authenticity lingo:
| Term | What It Means |
|---|---|
| Blind Stamp | Production year and artisan code |
| Sellier Receipt | Proof of original store purchase |
| Box/Papers | Original packaging and paperwork |
| Craftsmanship | Signature Hermès handwork |
If you’re unsure, get it authenticated. Hermès bags last forever, but peace of mind? That’s priceless.
Care, Condition, and Resale Lingo
When you’re shopping pre-loved or selling, a few terms come up all the time.
Condition categories in listings usually look like “Brand New in Box (BNIB),” “New/Unused,” “Excellent,” “Very Good,” and “Good.” BNIB means untouched, with all original packaging, like it just left Hermès.
Store Fresh means never carried. Gently Used is light wear, and Well-Loved means more obvious wear or patina. “Preloved” is just another word for used.
Here’s a table for common condition terms:
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| BNIB | Brand New in Box |
| LNIB | Like New in Box |
| S/S | Store Fresh / Store Stock |
| NIB | New in Box |
| Preloved | Previously owned |
When it comes to care, “spa,” “touch-up,” and “restoration” are your friends. “Bag spa” means professional cleaning and minor fixes. “Restoration” is a bigger job, think skilled artisan magic.
Hardware stickers are those little plastic protectors on the metal. Some of us peel them off right away, others leave them on for ages. No right answer.
The full set, raincoat, box, dust bag, lock and keys, impacts resale and peace of mind. If a listing says “missing accessories,” double-check what’s not there.
Frequently Asked Questions
Hermès bags come with their own language. Let’s tackle the most common questions so you can sound like you know your stuff.
How can one decipher the date stamp on a Hermès bag?
Hermès date stamps are a code for the year. Usually, it’s a letter inside a shape (like a square or circle).
A “T” in a square? That’s 2015. Look for the stamp inside the bag or on the strap.
Could you explain the difference between PM and GM sizes for Hermès bags?
PM means “Petit Modèle” (small model), GM is “Grand Modèle” (large model). You’ll see these terms all over.
For example, the Evelynne PM is a handy crossbody. The GM? Much roomier, great if you carry half your life with you.
What's the lowdown on Hermès PHW versus GHW hardware options?
PHW is Palladium Hardware, so cool-toned and silvery. GHW is Gold Hardware, yellow gold, classic.
Some folks match hardware to their jewellery, others just pick what looks best with the leather. No rules, really.
Curious about the meaning behind Hermès leather abbreviations?
Leathers get shortened for convenience: Togo, Clemence, Epsom, Swift, and so on. You’ll see them in tags and titles.
“B30 Togo PHW” means a Birkin 30, Togo leather, palladium hardware. Simple once you get used to it.
What's the scoop on the various leather types used by Hermès?
Hermès uses loads of leathers, each with its own vibe. Togo is pebbled and holds its shape. Clemence is slouchier and softer.
Box Calf is smooth and shiny, Epsom is lightweight and embossed, and Swift is super soft. Some are rare, think crocodile or ostrich. And yes, some of us have a favourite (or two).
Can you crack the code on Hermès' approach to colour nomenclature?
Hermès plays around with colour names in ways that are both clever and a little confusing. “Gold” isn’t really gold at all, it’s more like a deep tan. “Etoupe” leans toward a cool taupe, and “Rose Sakura” is just about the softest blush pink you can imagine.
They roll out new shades every season, and each one usually borrows its name from travel, nature, or something distinctly French. Honestly, it makes the search for that perfect bag colour a bit of an adventure.
