A Collector’s Guide to Rare and Discontinued Birkin Bags

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The world of Hermès Birkin bags goes way beyond the standard models most folks recognize. Regular Birkins are already tough to get, waiting lists can stretch for years, but rare and discontinued editions exist on a completely different level. Knowing which discontinued Birkins to hunt for can turn a collection from impressive to legendary, with some limited editions fetching prices that make their original retail tags look almost quaint.

Collectors have spent decades chasing pieces like the Shadow Birkin with its clever trompe-l'oeil design, or the elusive Faubourg edition that mimics Hermès's flagship store. These aren’t just handbags, they’re bits of fashion history, and they only get rarer as time ticks by. When Hermès retires certain sizes, stops making specific leathers, or collaborates with star designers, they leave behind a treasure map for the obsessed.

This guide highlights the most coveted discontinued editions, from Jean Paul Gaultier's bold So Black collection to those nearly mythical exotic combinations that show up at auction once in a blue moon. We'll dig into what makes these pieces special, how to spot a real one, and why some discontinued models keep outshining others in both status and investment value.

Key Takeaways

• Discontinued Birkin editions like the Shadow, Faubourg, and So Black models sell for much higher prices than regular versions, all thanks to their limited runs
• Rarity comes from unique collaborations, discontinued sizes, exotic skins, and special hardware Hermès doesn’t make anymore
• Knowing the backstory and details of rare editions is crucial if you want to build a collection that turns heads and holds its value

What Makes a Birkin Bag Rare or Discontinued?

Hermès keeps things exclusive by limiting releases, using rare materials, and quietly retiring certain designs. These moves create all sorts of rarity levels that keep collectors on their toes.

The Allure of Rarity and Scarcity

Hermès restricts Birkin production on purpose. Each artisan spends at least 18 hours crafting a single bag, and boutiques only get a handful twice a year.

Limited editions instantly create scarcity. The 2004-2005 metallic collection is a perfect example, Sotheby's only ever sold four metallic Birkins. One metallic silver Birkin 25 nearly hit $140,000 in 2022.

Exotic leathers ramp up the rarity even further. Crocodile, lizard, and ostrich Birkins pop up far less often than the usual calfskin. The Birkin 20 in black Niloticus lizard is about as rare as it gets, making its auction debut at $78,000.

Size matters, too. The Birkin 20, launched in 2019 as the "House Birkin," is nearly impossible to find in stores. It’s even scarcer on the resale market, especially in exotics.

Understanding Discontinued Birkin Designs

Hermès likes to quietly discontinue certain designs, colors, and hardware combos. Suddenly, a once-available style becomes a collector’s obsession.

Hardware variations often get axed first. When Hermès stopped making special studded bags like the HSS Black Clou Medor rockstud Birkin 35, it instantly became a unicorn. That one sold for $43,000 from Kelly Chen's collection.

Color retirements create another kind of rarity. When Hermès drops a leather color or finish, existing bags shoot up in value. Metallic finishes are a textbook case, Hermès ditched the time-intensive multi-layer dye process after 2005.

Special collaborations or artist editions are always limited. These partnerships mean only a handful of each bag ever exists, making them rare right from the start.

Collector Demand and Investment Value

Demand for rare Birkins almost always outpaces supply, sending prices into the stratosphere. A standard leather Birkin 30 might retail for $25,000-$30,000, but rare ones sell for many times that.

Diamond Birkins are the ultimate collector bait. With 251 diamonds (2.61 carats), these start above $200,000 retail and can go for anywhere from $75,000 to $300,000 on the secondary market, depending on color and condition.

Celebrity ownership or museum exhibition history can boost a bag’s price dramatically. Kelly Chan's metallic bronze Birkin 30, which appeared in Hong Kong's 'Bags: Inside Out' show, fetched $54,000, way above the normal $25,000-$30,000 range.

Regional exclusivity can make a huge difference too. Some colors or sizes only launch in certain countries, so collectors will pay a premium to get them elsewhere.

Iconic Rare Birkin Editions Every Collector Should Know

These legendary editions showcase Hermès’s best work and most exclusive ideas. From the Himalaya’s breathtaking fade to the architectural Faubourg, each one has its own story and cult following.

Himalaya Birkin: The Height of Prestige

The Himalaya Birkin is the ultimate trophy for collectors. Its name comes from the beautiful gradient that mimics the snowy Himalayas, shifting from pearly white to smoky grey.

Hermès crafts it from Niloticus crocodile, and achieving that color fade is no joke, it takes a master’s touch and months of work just to get it right.

Palladium hardware is standard, but the diamond versions with white gold hardware can reach insane auction prices.

Feature	Details
Material	Niloticus crocodile
Colour transition	White to grey gradient
Hardware options	Palladium, white gold with diamonds
Rarity level	Extremely rare

Himalaya Birkins have sold for over $500,000 CAD at auction. The diamond-studded ones break records and make headlines.

Nobody knows exactly how many Hermès makes, but experts guess it’s less than a dozen per year. That kind of scarcity, plus the skill involved, cements the Himalaya’s status as the ultimate flex.

Shadow Birkin: Optical Illusion, Maximum Impact

Jean Paul Gaultier’s Shadow Birkin from 2009 took the classic shape and turned it on its head with a clever trompe-l’oeil effect. This rare Birkin looks like it has a draped flap and strap, but it’s all an illusion.

Hermès used a raised impression technique, making this the only Birkin that really breaks from tradition. Gaultier’s approach turned smooth leather into something that looks like it’s casting a shadow.

Hermès only made a handful originally, then brought it back briefly in 2019. Collectors still chase the 2009 versions for their history and rarity.

Colors included black, brown, and étoupe, simple shades that make the shadow effect pop.

Condition is everything with Shadow Birkins. The raised details can show wear faster than regular Birkins, so mint examples are especially valuable.

Collectors love the Shadow for its creativity and its link to Gaultier’s time at Hermès. It’s a bold twist on a classic, but still totally functional.

Faubourg Birkin: Architectural Genius

The Faubourg Birkin nods to Hermès’ flagship store at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. Launched in late 2019, it’s basically the boutique in bag form.

With orange awnings and window details, it’s also the tiniest Birkin ever at 20cm. Sellier stitching gives it a boxy, structured vibe you usually only see on Kelly bags.

Hermès uses several leather types and colors to nail the building details. The orange awnings really pop against the neutral “walls.”

Original colorways:

• Brown and orange
• Navy and orange
• Black and orange
• Béton and orange

Even the hardware tells a story, the clochette looks like Hermès’s iconic orange shopping bag.

Production is ultra-limited. Only VIP clients get a shot at buying one. That, plus the wild craftsmanship, makes the Faubourg a grail for collectors.

Resale prices often top $100,000 CAD. It’s a conversation starter and a piece of wearable art rolled into one.

Crocodile Birkin and Diamond Variations

Crocodile Birkins are the peak of exotic luxury from Hermès. Two main types show up: Porosus (saltwater) and Niloticus (Nile) crocodile, each with its own look and feel.

Porosus has smaller, shinier scales. Niloticus comes with bigger, bolder scales that catch the eye.

Add diamonds, and you’ve got a bag that’s basically jewelry. White gold hardware with pavé diamonds turns clasps and locks into something truly over the top.

Typical crocodile Birkin prices:

• Standard crocodile: $75,000-$200,000 CAD
• Diamond versions: $200,000-$500,000+ CAD
• Himalaya diamond: $300,000-$600,000+ CAD

Color options change every season, but black, brown, and red never go out of style. Limited-edition colors fetch even higher prices.

If you’re buying crocodile Birkins, authentication is a must. Fakes are everywhere, and the stakes are high at these prices. We always suggest going through a pro when buying on the secondary market.

With rare skins and precious metals, these bags often gain value over time. A lot of collectors see diamond crocodile Birkins as investments, not just accessories.

Discontinued and Limited Birkin Sizes & Styles

The most in-demand Birkin sizes right now, 25, 30, and 35, each have their own fan base, with some versions getting rarer as Hermès shifts its focus. These three sizes hit the sweet spot for both use and resale value.

Birkin 25: Petite and Precious

The Birkin 25 (10" W x 8" H x 5" D) is the smallest standard size you’ll find. It’s become harder to get as Hermès puts more energy into bigger bags.

The 25 is perfect for evenings or smaller frames. Some leathers and color combos in this size go for crazy prices at auction.

It looks especially good in exotics like alligator and crocodile. Limited runs like the Touch Birkin really shine in this size.

Production quirks: Hermès skips certain leathers and colors for the 25 every season. That unpredictability just adds to the appeal.

Birkin 30: The Balanced Classic

Measuring 12" W x 9" H x 6" D, the Birkin 30 hits the balance between practical and chic. Honestly, it’s the “Goldilocks” of Birkins.

Jane Birkin herself preferred this size, which adds a cool bit of history. Hermès often launches new limited editions in the 30 first.

Why it works:

• Holds laptops and daily stuff
• Still looks elegant
• Works for almost any occasion
• Stays strong on resale across all leathers

The 30 looks sharp in structured leathers like Epsom and Box calf. Discontinued colors in this size can fetch top dollar.

Birkin 35: The Vintage Powerhouse

The Birkin 35 (14" W x 10" H x 7" D) screams old-school Hermès luxury. It dominated early Birkin production but is less common now.

Vintage 35s from the '80s and '90s have a special pull for hardcore collectors. The bigger size means more room for wild details and rare hardware.

Why collectors love the 35:

• More space for exotic skins to shine
• Vintage versions often have discontinued hardware
• Shows off rare leather grains
• Easier to find unique color combos

The Tressage collection only came in 30 and 35cm, so 35cm versions stand out. If you’re collecting, look for discontinued colors and hardware in this size.

Coveted Leathers and Exotic Materials

Leather makes or breaks a Birkin’s personality. It affects how you use it, how it ages, and how it feels in your hand. Each hide has its own quirks and charms.

Togo Leather: The Workhorse Favourite

Togo leather is our go-to for everyday Birkins. This grained calfskin just nails the balance between toughness and luxury, making it super practical for daily use.

Its grain hides scratches and wear, so your investment looks great even after years of use.

Togo keeps its shape without getting stiff. Over time, it develops a lovely patina that adds character instead of taking it away.

Why we love it:

• Scratch-resistant
• Holds its structure
• Comes in the widest color range
• Ages beautifully

Most collectors start with Togo; it’s forgiving, versatile, and just easy to live with. We’ve seen Togo Birkins that are 20 years old and still look fantastic if you take care of them.

Clemence Leather: Slouchy Luxury

Clemence leather brings a totally different vibe, think relaxed, lived-in elegance. Collectors who love a more casual look tend to gravitate toward this one. The smooth grain gives bags that signature slouchy shape everyone seems to want these days.

Right out of the box, Clemence feels incredibly soft and pliable. You don’t have to wait for it to break in; it just naturally develops that relaxed look as you use it.

But, fair warning: Clemence shows wear faster than Togo. Scratches pop up more easily because of the smoother surface, so you’ll need to handle it with a bit more care.

Clemence characteristics:

• Naturally slouchy silhouette
• Buttery soft texture
• Heavier than most other leathers
• Fewer colour options

If you want your Birkin to feel luxurious and “lived-in” (and maybe a little less precious), Clemence just works. It’s got this effortless charm, equally at home on a weekend trip or in the office.

Epsom Leather: Signature Structure

Epsom leather is all about structure, honestly, it’s the crispest, most architectural Birkin look you can get. We love how this pressed leather keeps its sharp edges and perfect proportions, year after year.

Epsom shrugs off water and stains better than any other Birkin leather. That’s a big plus if you live somewhere rainy or just worry about spills.

It’s also surprisingly light. Despite looking so structured, these bags weigh less than Togo or Clemence. First-timers are always surprised when they pick one up.

Epsom advantages:

• Weather-resistant
• Lightest weight option
• Holds its shape for good
• Easy to clean

If you want your Birkin to look pristine for the long haul, Epsom is probably your best bet.

Swift Leather: Featherweight Elegance

Swift leather is Hermès’s most refined, and, honestly, most delicate option. This calfskin feels incredibly smooth and has a kind of understated glamour, but you do need to baby it.

Swift bags are almost weightless. When you hold one, it feels like it could just float away, there’s something magical about that.

But here’s the catch: Swift shows every little mark. Even gentle use can leave corner wear or scratches you wouldn’t see on Togo.

Swift characteristics:

• Smoothest, most refined texture
• Extremely lightweight
• Prone to scratches and wear
• Limited colour choices

Swift is really for collectors who treat their Birkins like art, not everyday bags.

Hermès Collaborations and One-of-a-Kind Birkins

Some of the most sought-after Birkins come from exclusive collaborations and wild bespoke creations that go way beyond the standard lineup. You’ll find everything from designer partnerships to those ultra-rare horseshoe stamp pieces that show off Hermès at its most creative.

Artist Editions and Limited Releases

When Jean Paul Gaultier took the reins at Hermès (2003-2010), things got interesting. His Shadow Birkin (2009, briefly reissued later) is still the only Birkin to really break the mold.

The Shadow uses a trompe-l’oeil trick: the flap and strap look casually draped, but they’re actually raised impressions. Collectors still talk about this one, it’s a legend.

Gaultier also launched the So Black collection in 2010. It got pulled from stores because the PVD-coated black hardware was delicate, which just made it more desirable. Now, So Black Birkins are among the most wanted, whether in calf box or matte croc.

Pierre Hardy, Hermès’s jewelry director, inspired the Ghillies Birkin (2012) with details from Scottish brogue shoes. The decorative perforated trim gives each bag a feminine, detailed look.

Horseshoe Stamp and Custom Special Orders

The horseshoe stamp is Hermès’s ultimate flex. These bags come from the Special Order (HSS) program, where top clients can pick wild colour combos, exotic leathers, and hardware you’ll never see in standard production.

Horseshoe stamp bags take much longer to make, sometimes 12-18 months, compared to the usual 6-8 for regular Birkins.

Key features of horseshoe stamp bags:

• Unique colour combos you won’t find anywhere else
• Exotic leathers in custom layouts
• Exclusive hardware
• Provenance tracked in Hermès records

Prices for these bags often soar 30-50% higher than standard Birkins. Collectors love them for the story and individuality, not just the rarity.

Collabs With Designers and Architects

Hermès doesn’t just team up with fashion designers, they’ve tapped architects and industrial designers, too. The Faubourg Birkin (2019) is a perfect example, modeled after the flagship shop’s façade at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

This one comes with orange awnings and a clochette shaped like an Hermès shopping bag. It introduced the 20cm Birkin and uses Sellier stitching (usually reserved for Kellys).

The Cargo Birkin (2020) is all about function. Made from lightweight canvas, it’s got five outer pockets and even a coffee cup holder, but still feels luxe.

Then there’s the 3-in-1 Birkin (2021), which comes with a detachable pochette so you can switch it from handbag to tote to evening clutch. It’s a clever twist for people who want versatility in their collection.

Birkin Bags vs. Other Hermès Icons for Collectors

Birkins dominate the luxury handbag scene, but they’re just one part of Hermès’s “holy trinity”, the Kelly and Constance bags round it out. The Birkin vs. Kelly rivalry is real, and both have their own die-hard fans and rare editions.

Birkin vs. Kelly Bags: Rivalry and Reinvention

The Kelly bag actually came first, back in the 1930s, but Grace Kelly made it iconic. Even so, the Birkin has since stolen the spotlight as Hermès’s most coveted bag.

Kellys have a single top handle and flap closure, so they look more structured and formal, great for events, but not as handy for daily use. Birkins, with their dual handles, are easier to get into and work for almost any occasion.

Investment-wise:

• Birkins usually rise in value faster
• Kellys hold their worth long-term
• Rare versions of both can fetch huge premiums

Collectors debate which is the smarter buy. Lately, vintage Kellys from the ’60s-’80s are back in demand, thanks to their classic lines and structured feel.

Limited editions blur the lines. The Kelly Picnic mixes DNA from both bags, and those Kelly Doll minis? They’re right up there with rare Birkins. Honestly, it makes sense to own both if you’re serious about collecting.

The Story of Jane Birkin and her Legacy

Jane Birkin’s run-in with Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a 1983 flight changed handbag history. She complained about not having a good weekend bag and sketched her dream on an airsickness bag.

That sketch became the Birkin in 1984, a blend of Birkin’s bohemian practicality and Hermès’s legendary craftsmanship. She pushed for function over pure luxury, which is kind of refreshing.

Her own Birkins are now collector icons. She didn’t baby them; they were covered in stickers and looked well-used, which challenged the idea that luxury bags have to be pristine.

Jane Birkin’s collecting mantra:

• Use it, don’t just display it
• Make it personal, customize!
• Go for quality that lasts decades

After she passed away in 2023, interest in vintage Birkins from the ’80s and ’90s spiked. Those early bags really show off her original vision, before the Birkin became a status symbol.

Funny enough, Birkin herself liked her bags worn-in, while collectors chase mint condition pieces.

Picnic Kelly, Kelly Doll, and Unique Creations

Hermès keeps reinventing the Kelly, giving collectors plenty to chase outside the usual Birkins. The Picnic Kelly, for example, mixes wicker basket weaving with leather, perfect for summer.

Kelly Doll minis are just 20cm and compete with mini Birkins for attention. Even though they’re tiny, they can cost $15,000-25,000, making them a quirky entry point for exotic collecting.

Other cool Kelly variations:

• Kelly Sellier (outside stitching)
• Kelly Retourne (inside stitching)
• Kelly Cut (clutch style)
• Kelly Sport (canvas, more casual)

Discontinued Kellys can actually outperform Birkins at auction. The Kelly Lakis, with its messenger strap, is especially popular with younger collectors.

Since Hermès only makes these styles in tiny numbers, they’re tough to get. The Kelly Picnic pops up now and then, but Kelly Sport is gone for good. If you snagged one early, you’re sitting on a rarity.

Exploring these options lets Birkin collectors branch out while staying true to Hermès.

Frequently Asked Questions

Collectors always have questions about rare Birkins, how to spot them, what makes some worth six figures, and which are really worth chasing. Here’s what we know.

What are the distinguishing features of the rarest Birkin bags to ever hit the market?

The rarest Birkins have a few things in common. Diamond-encrusted hardware is the flashiest clue, real diamond Birkins have hundreds of stones on the clasp and padlock.

Exotic skins like Himalayan crocodile make a bag instantly rare. That snowy-white skin with its natural gradient looks like mountain peaks, and no two bags are exactly alike.

Some years, Hermès only made certain colors or finishes, like the metallic collection from 2004-2005, which took so many dye layers that they dropped it after a short run.

Special hardware (think Clou Medor studs) or unique color combos also add to the exclusivity. Usually, these details show up on one-offs or very limited releases.

How much would a limited edition Birkin typically cost, and what drives its value?

Limited edition Birkins usually start at $75,000 and can hit $300,000 or more, depending on the material and rarity. For example, a metallic bronze Birkin 30 sold for about $54,000, while a regular leather 30cm runs $25,000-$30,000.

Diamond Birkins are the priciest, detail can top $200,000. One Diamond Birkin 25 in Bleu Jean crocodile nearly hit $200,000 at auction.

The first black lizard Birkin 20 to hit auction went for $78,000. Since Birkin 20s are already rare, finding one in exotic leather is almost impossible.

Provenance matters a lot. If a celebrity owned the bag or it appeared in an exhibition, the price jumps compared to a similar piece without that backstory.

Could you list some of the most iconic Hermès Birkin collaborations that have resulted in highly coveted collector's items?

The Diamond Birkin is the ultimate showstopper, 251 diamonds (2.61 carats) on the clasp and another 40 (1.40 carats) on the padlock.

Leila Menchari’s window displays for Hermès inspired the metallic collection (2004-2005). She dreamed up those shimmering finishes, and translating them to leather required multiple dye steps.

The HSS program let clients create custom color and hardware combos. Kelly Chen’s black box Birkin 35 with Medor studs is a perfect example of what’s possible.

The Birkin 20 Faubourg, or House Birkin, came out in 2019 as a mini version of the flagship store. Its instant scarcity made it a collector’s favorite overnight.

What is the allure of discontinued Birkin models, and which ones should serious collectors be on the lookout for?

Discontinued models are the last chance to get certain designs, they’re not coming back. The metallic collection (2004-2005) is a textbook case; only four have ever sold at Sotheby’s.

The original Birkin 40 is also a big deal. It was the first design from Jane Birkin’s conversation with Dumas and the only Birkin with a shoulder strap.

Birkin 20s in exotic skins are especially worth hunting. They’re rare to begin with, and discontinued versions are nearly impossible to find.

Bags with special hardware or quirky closures are also worth noting. Hermès tends to stop making these after very short runs, so they disappear fast.

Have any Hermès Birkin bags attained record-breaking auction prices, and what makes them so special?

A metallic silver Birkin 25 with bronze trim from 2004 sold for nearly $140,000 at auction in 2022. The metallic finish process was so complex, once they stopped making them, that was it.

Diamond Birkins regularly set records, sometimes reaching $300,000, depending on the size, color, and condition. The Diamond Birkin 25 in Bleu Jean croc nearly hit $200,000 in early 2023.

The first black lizard Birkin 20 at Sotheby’s fetched $78,000. Being the first of its kind made collectors go wild.

Provenance can push prices even higher. Bags owned by celebrities, featured in exhibitions, or with unique stories always outperform similar, less storied pieces.

What's the backstory behind the Hermès Susan bag, and why has it earned a spot among the rarest bags?

First off, let's clear something up, the Susan bag isn't actually from Hermès. A lot of folks mix it up with other rare Hermès models, or maybe even confuse it with a totally different luxury brand.

When people talk about the rarest Hermès bags, they're usually thinking of the Diamond Birkin, the Himalayan Birkin, or those wild limited-edition metallics. Each of these has its own documented history and some pretty specific features that set them apart.

If you're looking at rare bags, double-check the maker and model through official sources. Hermès keeps pretty tight records on their limited runs, so you can usually confirm if a piece is legit.

If you're collecting, it's smarter to keep your sights on confirmed rare Hermès designs. think Birkin 20, the metallics, or those diamond-studded showstoppers, instead of chasing after bags that, frankly, might not even exist in their lineup.